Detroit Metro Soap Box Derby

FAQ's Frequently Asked Questions

Q. How do I get started?
A. We recommend you read everything you can find on the web to learn the basics as you begin being interested. A good start is right here, on the pages of our site. Start with the Links page. Go to each of the Soap Box Derby Links. Get the rules, price list, and current changes from the AASBD site. Then read our Tech Tips pages, and go to the SBD Network & Geoff French's Stock Division Site for the kit photos, Assembly tips, and Design Links. After that, go back to the AASBD and order the kit!

Q. What do I do when the kit arrives?
A. First, you carefully remove the parts from the packing crate. Do an item, by item inventory, and then inspect each piece for flatness, hole location, size, and number of pieces delivered. A packing list is included, as well as instructions. Check and make sure the instructions match the car in the kit. If, at that time, you notice any irregularities or discrepancies, contact the AASBD by e-mail, mail, or phone.

Q. Ok, so I've got the pieces, I've read the instructions; I've found the tech tips online, what's next?
A. Round up the proper tools required to assemble the kit, and make the big decision of whether to do so competitively, or just for the FUN. Making that decision, at this time, will determine just how many hours it's actually going to take you, and whomever is going to help you.

Q. How long does it take to build the car from the kit?
A. The time it takes is directly effected by what you know before the package arrives. The tools you use, who's helping you, and what mechanical skill level you are at, in mind and body, before you begin, all make a difference. The package instructions state 4 hours for assembly. That's if you know how a Derby car is assembled, to begin with. If you've never built one before, expect it to take longer, because it will!

Q. How long could it actually take from package to track?
A. That depends on what you want to do with the car. If you want to compete, not long, if you want to win, a lot more than 40 hours! You could spend 6 months of your spare time making adjustments, testing and tuning, and practicing to make perfect.

Q. What most affects the outcome of a Derby race?
A. Driver's abilities, car construction & set-up, attitude and enthusiasm. Luck does play an active part at times, but it's usually the pure, dumb, blind strain. Weather and track conditions, at the exact time of the race, have a direct effect, as well.

Q. How do I prepare for race day?
A. Build it right the first time, and practice, practice, practice!

Q. What tools will I need?

A. For the most part, the following list is a great start of all the tools & supplies required to build your car from the kit:

Pair of Safety glasses (Always remember SAFETY FIRST!)

A 6" ruler and a 12 foot steel measuring tape in Inches or metric

Assortment of emery paper in medium to fine grits (Automotive Paint stores have the biggest selections, but some Craft stores may have what you need.)

A steel wool soap pad, such as SOS or Brillo.

Some cheesecloth (Available in most Large grocery stores, in the baking section.)

Small amount of mineral sprits

Pint or Quart of Tung oil (Homer Formby’s Minwax or Sherwin-Williams' Waterlox)(The more coats you use, the smoother the finish. Allow enough dry time between coats!)

Paper toweling or clean disposable cloth rags

Small tube Epoxy that does not harden too fast

1 small wood splint (a Popsicle stick or tongue depressor works well here, both to mix the adhesive and to guide it into the king pin hole.)

One 1/4 x 2 1/4-inch fully threaded machine screw, two 1/4-inch fender washers, and a 1/4-inch nut to make a temporary bushing press.

Pair of thin rubber or plastic gloves.

One piece of non-porous tape 2"x2"

A dab of petroleum jelly or grease

Pliers

Hammer

Hacksaw with fine-toothed blade

1 large flat-bladed screwdriver

#2 Phillips screwdriver

Two 7/16-inch wrenches, one must be open-end type

Two 1/2-inch wrenches

Two 3/8 inch wrenches, both must be open-end type

5/64 inch Allen wrench

Inch-pound torque wrench with a 7/16-inch socket and 1/2 inch socket

Small amount of acetone (Some Nail Polish Removers are Acetone based, but check the label and use a plain one, no moisturizers or aloe added.)

Silver solder, with the correct flux for the steering cable when cut.

1 piece of rough 1"x 2" lumber, sometimes called firring strip, 6 or 8 ft in length

Pair of 2-inch C-clamps

A center punch, a machinist’s layout scriber

A combination square with a 12 inch blade

Power drill to run a 1/4-inch drill bit, 3/16-inch, 5/16-inch, & 7/16-inch bits

1 old magazine

Marking pencil or pen

Mill File

A roll of black plastic electrician’s tape

A vise if you have one, or can borrow one from a friend or neighbor.

2 sawhorses with Strips of carpeting fasten to the tops to prevent damage to the floorboard, be sure that no nails or screws used to fasten it can contact the floorboard.

1 parts organizer (Divided container, usually available at any hardware or Dept. store in sporting goods or automotive sections. It would be useful to label each compartment with its contents. For example, they could be labeled, “screw G 1/4 x 2”, “screw G1 1/4 x 1 3/4”, “screw G3 1/4 x 1 1/2 “, “gold washer R 1/4 x 1 1/4 “, “washer R1 1/4 x 2”, and so forth.)

Borrow a wire rope cutter with curved jaws (A bicycle enthusiasts or repair shop owns such 1/16 inch brake & steering cables tools. The Park CN-4 works well. However, the Swiss-made Felco C7 is the best tool of this type.)

Optional: Electric sander can save a lot of time and hard work.

A set of trammel points and a roughly 72-inch beam to mount them on

Currently, these special tools cost $325. Unless you become a committed derby racer and travel the rally circuit, you probably should not purchase these. Rather, you should borrow them from someone who already has a set or use them at one of your local derby’s clinics. Dial indicator-equipped spindle alignment gage

Pair of axle support stands and a pair of spindle adjusting wrenches.

Feeler stock from .001” ~ .020” (Auto Parts stores usually carry sets at the checkout.)

An open-socket type ratchet wrench (usually1/4-inch) with a #2 Phillips bit

(This is a big help in turning the inner front airfoil mounting screws, closest to the body.)

(Stayed tuned for more, or e-mail us if you have an idea for this page.)

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